John Batterson Stetson created the Boss of the Plains, aka the iconic American cowboy hat. He found his muse in the Mexican Vaquero’s 10-galones sombreros. Sombreros de 10 galones date back to Spain in the 1600s and its ranching regions of Andalusia, Extremadura, Castile and León, and La Mancha.

During the 1600s and 1700s, the Spanish cattle, goat, horse, pig, and sheep producers dominated those regions with their vast open landscapes optimal for livestock grazing and managing. In southern Spain, Andalusia represented the heart of Spain’s ranching culture and was ideal for all species of grazing livestock with its warm climate and wide open plains.

Vaquero’s Country

Situated in western Spain, Extremadura was a significant ranching region due to its expansive pastures and fertile land. There, ranchers raised cattle, pigs, and sheep on large estates known as latifundios.

Castile and León spanned the meseta, aka Spain’s high plateau country. In central Spain, this region was home to a powerful association of sheep ranchers, Mesta, an organization that controlled transhumance — the seasonal migration of flocks related to wool production.

Famous for its association with Don Quixote, La Mancha sported plains known for their ever rolling hills where sheep and goats thrived. Castile, León, and La Mancha were cogs in Spain's famed wool production gears and dominated by Merino sheep. The Merino breed of sheep produced high-quality wool that was Spain’s valuable export commodity during the 1500s and 1600s.

What Does All This Spanish History Have to Do with a Cowboy Hat?

Spain became one of the biggest players in European exploration and then colonization of the Americas beginning in the 1600s. Ranchers from Extremadura, like Hernán Cortés and Francisco Pizarro, later brought their livestock along with their vaqueros to the Americas during the Spanish colonization of the Americas era.

Vaqueros shined as premier skilled horsemen and cattle herders of Spain. Vaqueros played a significant role in shaping the cowboy culture of the American West, including Texas. The word vaquero comes from the Spanish word vaca, meaning cow, so vaquero translates to "cowman" or "cowboy."

Vaquero Cultural Skills that Are Still Seen Today in the American West of Livestock Management

Historians often regard vaqueros as the original cowboys. Today, the vaquero’s skills and traditions remain a vital part of the ranching industry’s culture in the American West. Today, the vaquero’s influence is honored through rodeos, music, and the enduring legacy of cowboy culture in the United States.

The word vaquero comes from the Spanish word vaca, meaning cow. Vaquero translates to "cowman" or "cowboy". Spain introduced cattle ranching to today’s Mexico and the southwestern United States. The vaquero profession continued in Spain’s newly conquered American lands.

Vaquero Significance:

• Roping and Branding: Essential for managing cattle on the open range.
• Saddles, Spurs, and Bridles: Innovations in tack and horse equipment that were later adopted by American cowboys.
• Attire: Their wide-brimmed sombreros, chaparreras aka leather chaps, and pointed boots influenced the classic cowboy look in the U.S.

That last bullet point is where John Batterson Stetson enters stage right.

As a culture evolves, the fashion associated with this specific culture clings to its culture’s right hand. The cowboy/cowgirl fashion trend became mainstream in the United States through the 1930s and 1950s, although its roots go back to the late 1800s. Billy Crystal and Jack Palance starred in the 1991 movie, City Slickers, about aging city males who learn life lessons on a dude ranch.

Western fashion has seen recurring resurgences since the 1930s. The American cowboy’s work gear morphed into high fashion after the cattle drive era, which was after the Civil War era gave birth to the early mid-20th century “singing cowboy” of the 1930s to the 1950s.

The 1970s brought the term “rhinestone cowboy” into play. Larry Weiss wrote Rhinestone Cowboy in 1973, inspired by his personal struggles and the resilience of artists pursuing their dreams. The 1980 movie, Urban Cowboy, based on the life of Dew Westbrook, popularized the term "urban cowboy".

C&W night clubs popped up and closed down through the years. The people who frequented this genre of night clubs spared no expense on Western attire. Billy Ray Cyrus and Dolly Parton successfully marketed C&W line dancing that reigned as top interactive entertainment at cowboy dance clubs with the release of their collaborative song entitled, Romeo. 

As you can witness now, the cowboy’s work attire and gear spurred on upscale fashion trends. As it was in the late 1600s in Spain and the Americas, it is the iconic and protective sombrero that was the inspiration for the first cowboy hat that identified as distinctly North American. Even in 2025, the Stetson design is reminiscent of Spain and significantly tied to the Mexican sombrero.

C&W Fashion Booms

• During the post-World War II era, cowboy and cowgirl styles became more mainstream.
• Youth Culture: Cowboys symbolized freedom and rebellion, and this appealed to young Americans.
• Dude Ranch Tourism: Urbanites visiting working ranches embraced the Western aesthetic.
• Casual Western Wear: Brands like Levi's, Wrangler, and Stetson began marketing cowboy-inspired clothing as casual fashion, blending functionality with style.

Who Was John Batterson Stetson?

John B. Stetson designed the first American cowboy hat and called his design the “Boss of the Plains”. Stetson was born the seventh of 12 siblings to Stephen and Susan Batterson Stetson in 1830 in Orange, New Jersey. John quit school early to learn the hatter's trade with his father, a hatter.

Doctors diagnosed John with tuberculosis in his early 20s. John took off West, seeking a better atmosphere and probably adventure. First, he stopped off in St. Joseph Missouri and worked his way up from laboring in a brickyard to the owner/operator of a hat factory. A flood washed away his factory. John soldiered on to work with cowboys and went on frequent gold mining expeditions to Pike’s Peak.

On one of John’s mining journeys, a Colorado rainstorm in the early 1860s exposed Stetson to the challenging and formidable climates that cowboys, ranchers, and settlers faced so often on the American frontier. During this storm, Stetson fashioned an impromptu, wide-brimmed hat out of felt to protect himself from the elements.

Consequently, John’s make-shift hat proved impressively functional. It sheltered him from the rain, sun, and wind and illustrated the efficiency of a durable, water-resistant hat for outdoor work. While trekking around the Rocky Mountains, John noticed the flaws in the Westerner’s usage of coonskin hats. They attracted fleas, did not provide shade from the sun, and became limp during rain showers.

Still a young man, John moved back east. There, he established his hat factory, the Stetson Hat Company in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, in 1865. John insisted on a policy of "none but that of sterling quality". His business soared so highly that he needed larger headquarters in a little over a year.

Eventually, John moved his business to the quieter northeast area of Philadelphia. He expanded his operations to cover 12 acres with five and six-story hat factory buildings and the Stetson Hospital. At this time, John adopted unheard of operational manufacturing policies.

John’s passion was "to do good work at fair prices", plus he insisted on taking care of his employees, their families, and the factory neighborhood non-employees. He built his factory buildings with brick, automatic sprinkler systems, fire extinguishers on every floor, and various other safety devices. He purchased manufacturing equipment of superb quality. John’s operations became the world’s most respected hat manufacturing facility.

John established one of the most liberal apprenticeship programs of that day. He paid above scale wages and bonuses. He donated factory spaces for his employees to use for their community activities. He was a patriot and organized a military company of young male employees by outfitting and training them, and he supplied an armory.

When Did John Stetson Create the American Cowboy Hat?

John B. Stetson designed his first cowboy hat, which he dubbed the "Boss of the Plains", in 1865, when he established the Stetson Hat Company. John wanted to gift the American West with a durable, functional hat for the harsh and rugged conditions of the American West.

John fashioned the "Boss of the Plains" with a wide, flat brim for sun and rain protection and a high, rounded crown for insulation and ventilation. Ultimately, he crafted his Boss of the Plains from high-quality felt, and most hats of this style were made of beaver fur, which is organically waterproof and durable. John contracted with traveling salesmen to sell his design way out West.

The Boss of the Plains served as the prototype for today’s cowboy hat. This hat was functional, practical, and stylish. The Boss of the Plains quickly reigned as the King of Hats across the American frontier. John Stetson's innovative design revolutionized headwear for the Western cowboys. John B. Stetson’s name became synonymous with quality and the hearty spirit of the American cowboy.

Historical sources cite that John was most influenced by the vaquero’s sombrero and then the frontier slouch hats of the frontiersmen and Civil War soldiers, with the sombrero as the most significant influence. Stetson adapted the wide sombrero rim for ultimate sun protection and employed a more durable material to suit the American cowboy.

Frontier slouch hats were made of soft material and featured wide-brimmed rims. Historians cite another possible influence on John’s cowboy hat design could have been the eastern bowler hat for its durable construction. These hats were made from high-quality beaver fur, were waterproof, and withstood harsh weather conditions.

Boss of the Plains Conclusion

Fortunately, this writer lives in the Texomaland Red River region, where she sees working cowboys on a daily basis. She currently owns four pairs of cowboy boots, one Australian outback hat, and five cowboy hats, ideal for any social or work setting — but, nothing to impress. There is so much more to this fascinating Western American historical and culturally inspired hat story. Laketexoma.com hopes to pique your interest in this iconic art that morphed into a fashion accessory known as the “American Cowboy Hat”.